The Roman Wine Company - Rome, Italy

Col de Bacche Morellino di Scansano

Brendan — Sun, 08 Apr 2007 14:07:00 +0000

Don't you love it when you read wine reviews that go something like "Sensual hints of backwater floral mud with distinct undertones of 100-year old California cedar brush". Lucky for our readers and clients, we at The Roman Wine Co. are just not that silly. What is a good way to describe wine? One way to describe a wine is to discuss its ideal pairing mates, meaning, the foods that it goes well with. This is the best way to discuss Col di Bacche's Morellino di Scansano. In fact, the land where it hails from, Scansano, a small village in the Tuscan Maremma, an area of Italy known for a large population of wild boar. As urban dwellers, we do not have easy access to these fine meats, nor the means to cook them. Therefore, we settled for spiedini alla brace. Spiedini is basically, "meat on a stick", the tastiest parts of 3 or 4 different animals stuck on a large skewer, separated by hunks of green pepper and olive. Not having a brace, or grill, we had to settle for an pan and an oven cranked up to 225 degrees C. The spedini came out quite good, nonetheless. The Morellino di Scansano is a lighter red which happens to go very well with rich, tasty food. In fact, I'd almost go as far as to say that it requires this type of food, as the strong flavours of the meats brought out the true character of the Morellino.

Available for purchase on our website for €13.90

Elio Grasso Barbera

Brendan — Fri, 06 Apr 2007 10:55:00 +0000

The man is a legend in the Langa Albese winemaking region. His wines are splendid, and he has the attitude that every winemaker should have, that one should make wines that they not only enjoy, but love. And that is why Elio Grasso is one of our favourite winemakers. He keeps it small and simple at only 14 hectares, and has been known to skip vintages if he felt it had not come out right.

The other night I had the pleasure of drinking his 2003 Barbera d'Alba Vigna Martina, a truly exceptional vintage. Many folks think that Barbera is the wine that is drunk "while waiting for the Barolo to be ready". I could not disagree more. It definitely holds its own in Piedmont, possibly the most important winemaking region in the world. This particular wine derives from grapes grown on 2.2 hectares of land on Mr Grasso's estate. The first vines were planted about 15 years ago. These babies are plucked from the wine during the first week of September, and then left in Inox steel vats for 12 to 15 days. Once fermented, they are transferred to French oak for a year and then aged an additional 8 months in the bottle before being brought to the market.

This is a very deep violet red wine, with spicy nose. I was able to detect mould, cedar, a slightness of cherry. Swishing it around, I noticed its appealing film residue left on the side of the glass. Then, the moment of truth. Touched the tongue delicately, moved its way around until it found the more welcoming taste buds, and then went on to leave a pleasant mark, which is of course the "finish" in winespeak. In the Piedmontese fashion, we enjoyed it with fresh homemade egg pasta tagliatelle with fresh porcini mushroom cream sauce. Almost perfect, although I might consider drinking it with something a little less aggressive on the palate next time.

Available for purchase on our website for €22,90

Tenuta dell'Abate Giffarro' - Sicilian Red

Brendan — Wed, 04 Apr 2007 13:24:00 +0000

You have to try this stuff. Not only is Luigi, the guy who makes it, absurdly passionate about his wine (I told him that it was the best red I tried all year and I swear I saw tears in his eyes as he thanked me), but he's also pretty darn bravo at making wine. Ready to drink 5 minutes after you open the bottle, it goes down like silk. I opened it up, poured it right away, stuck my nose in it, and slurped it down, letting it hit every taste bud on the way down. It’s one of those undeniable wines. You can’t deny that it just tastes good. A lot going on, and strong (14%). Ideally be drunk with a tasty roast. Overall rating is 'Very Good'.

Tenuta dell'Abate Giffarro
Cabernet, Syrah

Trip to Casale Falchini Winery in San Gimignano, Tuscany

Brendan — Mon, 02 Apr 2007 13:05:00 +0000

This blog entry was initially featured on our site last fall when the "featured winery" section had its debut

Our quest to acquire Italy’s best Vernaccia started about a year ago when a friend / reliable taster-at-large of ours brought us back a bottle of Casale Falchini Ab Vinea Doni after trying it at a restaurant just outside the town of San Gimignano. After a couple of sniffs, swirls, and sips we decided that we needed to have it at the shop. We called the winery and left two messages, but never received a call back. When we did finally get Mr. Falchini on the phone, he told us that "he would think about it" and get back to us. What? However, we did not hear back from him. This wine was too good to not be on our shelves, so we decided that we would drive up to San Gimignano and drop in on Mr. Falchini, unexpectedly.

We set out on a scorching July morning to the low lying grape filled hills of Tuscany. The A1, often referred to by its fitting nickname the “Motorway of the Sun”, seemed like it was on the verge of melting as the temperature hit 35°C. We followed the signs to Siena and then on to San Gimignano, with its breathtaking countryside dotted with historic castles and churches. Upon arriving in the fraction of Casale, which was basically a dirt road, we asked an old lady walking her dog for directions. The dialect was hard to understand, but her hand signals weren’t and we found it perched on the top of a hill overlooking the scenic valley. We parked the car and headed down to the office where we were met by a young man.

Mr. Falchini's son, Christopher seemed a little amazed that we drove all the way up to see them and told us that he would go and go get his father. In the meantime, we looked around the office and were impressed by all of the awards hanging on the wall. How is it that we had never heard of these wines before? There were publications in English, French, German, Japanese, and Italian. After a few minutes of small talk and awkward waiting, Mr. Falchini came out, introduced himself, and immediately started explaining his reservations about selling his wine to “just anyone”. The conversation got a bit tense, with Mr. Falchini making it clear that we had wasted our time by coming up here. However, we were persistent. We told him that we would be honored to carry such a fine product and that it was the best Vernaccia we had tasted.

I think he started taking a liking to us when he realized that we were not going to leave without an order in place. He was also intrigued by the fact that we were foreigners, that we sold Italian wine in Italy, and that we drove 300 kilometers to try and convince him to sell us his wine. He offered us a sample, which we demanded to pay for. He told us that “we’ll work it out when I ship you your first order”. All of a sudden, the prospect of obtaining Mr. Falchini’s wines was looking good.

Just as we were about to see ourselves to the door, Mr. Falchini insisted on postponing his lunch break and giving us a tour of the winery. We knew how important his lunch breaks were. There had been times when we had called at 11:30am and he had already been out to lunch. We left the office and headed to the bottling room where 6 people were busy filling and corking on a state of art bottling machine, which, as he explained, could handle up to 2000 bottles an hour. He was proud of his machinery, and explained how his state of the art corking machine was so advanced that it sucked the air out of the bottle before it pushed the cork in, making sure that no dust or residue from the cork made its way into the wine.

From here we went to the maturing room where the wines are left to put to rest after having spent a period in oak casks or stainless steel. Here you can awe at the various vintages, or annate, as they say around here. Mr. Falchini once again switched into frustrated winemaker mode, as he explained how the Italian government was destroying the art of wine production by offering incentives to those who produce using “organic” methods. He insisted that it was useless and that they should be educating them on the traditional winemaking methods instead. The problem is that the laws governing organic products allow the use of some chemicals and not others, some of which are essential to successfully fending off diseases to which grapes are susceptible. This results in the overuse of these permitted substances that inhibit the production of quality wines. He insisted that traditional winemaking was the only way forward, and that technology must be used in a responsible way when only when the life of the vines is threatened. We could not agree more.

Out in the courtyard he showed how the grapes, within one hour of being picked, are transferred to the fermenting tanks. It must be done right away as to prevent the oxidizing process from taking place. It also guarantees a quality crush for the winemaking, he explained. The crushed grapes are pumped into waiting silos where temperature controlled fermentation takes place.

We go back into the complex and down into the fermentation room where “juice is turned to wine”. These rooms are basically immense temperature controlled environments. As he carried on explaining the various machines and their functions, we thought here is a person who hasn’t just dedicated his life to the production of wine, but someone who has religiously studied winemaking and understood the various techniques down to their smallest details.

Alongside the fermentation rooms are the cellars where the wines are put to mature in oak barrels. The great Super Tuscans share this vault with another peculiarity, Spumante, or, sparkling wine. You may ask, what is so peculiar about that? Well, Tuscany is not known for its sparkling wines, iIn fact, Falchini was the only one we had ever heard of. Hearing the words “Tuscan Spumante” is sort of like hearing “French Chianti” or “Italian Hot Dogs”. Here, Mr. Falchini takes a prime selection of Vernaccia and Chardonnay grapes and uses a “Champagne Method” to produce this award winning anomaly. In 2005 it won a gold medal in a blind tasting alongside several prominent French Champagnes.

Then we come to the vineyard’s prized possession, the Vinsantaio, the damp rooms dedicated to aging Falchini’s cherished Vin Santo, a Tuscan dessert wine. The winery has three Vinsantai one for each of the various steps in its production. We were fascinated when he told us about his barrels. Several of them were used to age the first vintage of Italy’s most famous wine, the Sassicaia, in 1968. Others, he told us almost as if it were a secret, were from Kentucky, where they were used to age Bourbon!

At the end of the tour came the part we love. The tasting! He brought out 2 glasses and the spittoon, which of course we didn’t end up needing. We tried his Vernaccias, both the Ab Vinea Doni and Titolato Castel Selva. They had a mineral nose and distinct taste, which is not typical of Vernaccia, an outcast in a region that highly favors red wines. Then, we moved on the Chianti Solli Senesi, which was light, but definitely not lacking in character. We finished off with the Campora, which was very silky, and seemed as if it would go very well with a juicy rare steak. Just as we were about to get going, Mr. Falchini asked "Did you try the Vin Santo?". We had not, and he insisted that there would have been no point in our trip had we left without trying it. Plus, the fact that it was aged in Bourbon Barrels certainly sparked our interest. It was indeed a fine dessert wine, with hunts of almonds, vanilla, and caramel.

Click here to see a complete list of Casale Falchini Wines available on The Roman Wine Company website

Easter Newsletter 30 March 2007

Brendan — Fri, 30 Mar 2007 13:22:00 +0000

Now that Lent is coming to a close, The Roman Wine Co. would like to remind all of you wine drinkers out there that it is time to get right back to our beloved indulgences. We have taken the liberty of putting together a little "basket" of some of our top-selling favourite treats, accompanied with a discount, for you to pair with you hams and lambs this upcoming holiday.

Also, take advantage of our new incentives. That means 10% off your first order (email us if you have not received a coupon) and a € 10 coupon for every customer you refer to us that places an order.

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Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 2001
Ratings: Excellent (RWC), 91 (Robert Parker), 90 (Wine Spectator), 3/3 (GR), 5/5 (AIS)
This wine has consistently won several awards and high ratings for the last decade. It is the cousin of the Tenuta Nuova Cru, the Brunello that scored a 97 with Wine Spectator in 2006. Spicy vanilla nose, and toasty, thick, and elegant all around. I would not drink this wine unless I was accompanying it with a thick cut of porterhouse (Steak alla Fiorentina) slightly grilled, with a little salt and pepper.
On sale for €35.00 (- 12% off) Click here to buy!

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Nussbaumer Gewurztraminer Alto Adige DOC
Ratings: Excellent (RWC), 91 (Wine Spectator), 3/3 (GR), 5/5 (AIS)
An extremely high quality wine at an amazing price. Rich and powerful, with lots of lemony, oily, spicy character. Full-bodied, with dried apricot flavors. Long and structured. Drink now. (WS)
On sale for €22.00 (- 12% off) Click here to buy!

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Vigna della Congregazione Fiano di Avellino DOCG
Ratings: Excellent (RWC)
Its straw yellow tint is more golden than yellow. At first whiff we caught wild flowers, honey, grapefruit. When we unleashed it on our tongues we found all of the above with a pleasant mineral taste released after a bit of swishing. An excellent white capable of converting the most stubborn red wine lover.
On sale for €19.50 (- 18% off) Click here to buy!

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Caratello Vinsanto del Chianti DOC
Ratings: Excellent (RWC)
They call it "holy wine" for a reason. Very nutty with strong hints of maple syrup. And, it just had something about it. When we asked what it was, Mr. Falchini let us in on a little secret. He aged some of his Vin Santo in barrels which were used to age whiskey and some in barrels that aged famous Super Tuscans and Brunellos.
On sale for €12.50 (- 13% off) Click here to buy!

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Ruggeri Montefalco Rosso DOC
Ratings: Excellent (RWC)
We thought we had already found all of the good Montefalcos, then we came across Giuliano Ruggeri at a recent tasting here in Rome. An almost Bordeaux-like consistency, this wine should be decanted for at least a half hour before it is released to the palate. The scent provides us with distinct hints of blackberries, currants, and leather. It is warm on the palate, and its tannins adjust nicely to the heat of the mouth. While going down, it causes a reaction which invokes the glass-laden hand to position itself near the mouth in preparation for another lovely swig. Highly recommended.
On sale for €11.90 (- 16% off) Click here to buy!

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Vigna di Gabri Ansonica DOC
Ratings: Very Good (RWC), 3/5 (GR), 3/5 (AIS)
An excellent expression of Ansonica, this wine spotlights the special characteristics of the variety. The intense, elegant aromas range from fruity (apples) to floral (acacia) and more complex scents of a salty or mineral (flint) cast. A structured, mouth-filling flavor that is fresh and sapid. Lingering finish. (winemaker's notes)
On sale for €13.50 (- 10% off) Click here to buy!

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Antinori Bramito del Cervo Umbria IGT
Ratings: Very Good (RWC)
Definitely a refreshing summer wine, this wine is a good example of a solid well-made Chardonnay. The right amount of green apple and banana on the nose complimented nicely by a not-too-sweet taste and a finish that sticks around just long enough to be appreciated.
On sale for €10.50 (- 12% off) Click here to buy!

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Il Pendio Bianco 2003 Terre di Franciacorta DOC
Ratings: Very Good (RWC)
A subtle Chardonnay from the Franciacorta region of northern Italy. Light straw yellow in appearance with hints of banana and freshly cut grass on the nose. Dry enough to be considered a "food" wine, it went down gracefully, not to mention delightfully, and left a lasting finish on the palate.
On sale for €13.50 (- 20% off) Click here to buy!

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Falchini Spumante Metodo Classico Brut
Ratings: Very Good (RWC)
Riccardo Falchini's innovative winemaking skills have enabled him to create one of the first sparkling wines in Tuscany. Made using the classical "champagne" method, the lines of bubbles rush neatly to the top of the glass and are accompanied by a sweet yeasty aroma and smooth taste. We found that it went particularly well with Tuscan salami.
On sale for €15.00 (- 18% off) Click here to buy!

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A presto (until next time),

Brendan & John

A Southern Barbera

Brendan — Wed, 28 Feb 2007 15:45:00 +0000

We all know and love the Barbera varietal, and we also know that The Roman Wine Company loves to seek out "out of the ordinary" wines. Now, you're probably thinking, what is so out of the ordinary about Barbera? When someone hands you a glass of a a Piedmont grown and vinified Barbera, you would think nothing of it. Unless it is exceptional. Ciabrelli took Barbera out of its native home in northern Italy, brought it down south to Campania and planted it on their vineyard in Castelvenere. The results were quite pleasing. The lovely film on the side of the glass indicates a very "present" wine, no dripping back down, no "legs". The reflection was a deep red distinct inkiness. It emits a refreshing peppermint scent, with a tinge of spiciness. The nose softens a bit as the wine is left to decant (in the glass). In the mouth, there is an initial "hotness" that is true to its peppermint nose. As an added treat, the bottle has a curious looking nobleman on the label. The wine went exceptionally well with fresh chicken breast rolled with ham, cheese, and sage over a bed of roasted potatoes, garlic, and rosemary. We would suggest that it be drunk with chicken or pork dishes that aren't particularly heavy, because it needs to be given the opportunity to "hold its own" on you palate. The best part about this wine is its price, €9.60! We suggest that you grab a few bottles while supplies last.

Primitivo vs. Zinfandel

Brendan — Thu, 15 Feb 2007 15:01:00 +0000

My colleague was nice enough to pick me up a bottle of some fine Californian Zinfandel (In Italy Zinfandel is known as Primitivo) on his last trip to the US. I regret not appreciating wine more before I left the US. Californian wines are expensive to begin with, and if you do happen to find them in Italy then they cost twice as much as they do in the US. Plus, due to what is available in Italy it does not make much sense to buy a US wine. That said, I really enjoyed This one was St Francis Winery's Old Vines Zinfandel.

Zinfandel has supposedly been genetically proven to be the long lost American cousin of the Italian Primitivo Varietal, a grape native to the Apulia region of Southern Italy. Just because I like to do things like this, I went out an bought an Italian Primitivo so I could do some comparing. I grabbed a bottle of Soloperto Primitivo di Manduria DOC off the shelf and brought both wines home to decant. It is fair to say that the Italian Primitivo, being from 1997, might have been at a bit of an advantage, but I put them both to the test. The wines were really similar in consistency. Both were peppery and fruity, and went very well with pan-seared steak and oven roasted potatoes. The Zinfandel was sweeter and stronger, and the Primitivo was more acidic. Both were very good and I will certainly be drinking them again.

I recently watched the documentary Mondovino. It was a little slow and boring, but it had some interesting comparisons of the new school and old school wine industry. The director would go back and forth between little old peasant winemakers and younger "wine-consultants" decked out in Armani suits and driving around in expensive cars. Of course, I agree with the idea that quality is lost on all things mass-produced, but at the same time we cannot deny that technology has helped the winemaking industry enormously. Multi-billionaire wine producer Robert Mondavi was portrayed as the evil American plotter set out to "Cocacola-ize" wine. He was of course helped by the even more evil enologist Michel Rolland and the famous American wine critic Robert Parker. The director did a good job of pointing out how the world may be in danger of fat cats set out to create un-unlikeable sweet vanilla oaky wines because of the sinister collaboration between these 3 individuals. One buys up land, 1 "makes" the wine, and the other writes favorably about it, knowing that the combination of these actions is bound to generate billions in sales. It was funny how a small French town resisted Mondavi's billion dollar takeover of their land to preserve their wine-making traditions.

Sicilian Invasion

Brendan — Thu, 08 Feb 2007 14:45:00 +0000

I tend to be biased when it comes to Sicilian wines. I am almost certain that I am going to like them even before I try them, therefore, I tend to give them the benefit of the doubt over wines from other regions.

Cantina Rinascita

Don't be put off by the tacky label, the Nero d'Avola Cabernet bi-varietal is an excellent, plummy, juicy thick wine with barely an acidic aftertaste. Drink it to cut down on your heartiest dish.

Cusumano

Definitely one of the more popular wine producers in Sicily at the moment. Sagana' (Nero d'Avola) and Noa' are two excellent wines. Both of these wines got a "3 glass" rating from Gambero Rosso (the highest classification from a very trusted Italian wine guide). Being that these wines are very tasty, I would try them with heavy dishes should as roasted meats and hearty pasta dishes. Or, if you're a purest, on their own.

Sallier de la Tour Winery

Sempre Siciliano. The Cabernet was everything one could want, spicy, fruity and smooth (but not too smooth where something is lost) on its way down. I bought their higher end wine to do a comparison, but since I was so satisfied with the Cabernet, I am saving the good one for a special occasion. The "Sallier de la Tour" is made from Cabernet, Merlot, Nero d'Avola, and Syrah.

Welcome to The RWC Blog

Brendan — Thu, 01 Feb 2007 14:37:00 +0000

With this new blog we hope to add our contribution to the established online community devoted to Italian wine. You will find reviews of the wines we stock (and some that we don't), pairing tips, recipes, and just about anything that has to do with Italian wine. We also plan on using the blog as a way of archiving our past emails and newsletters, and to announce specials and promottions.

Comments are of course encouraged.

A presto (See you soon),

Brendan & John
The Roman Wine Company